Tuesday, January 26, 2021

Black Bottom/ Paradise Valley and the original Detroit 1920s-1950s

 


The story : Its BACK!  Detroit Paradise Valley /  Harmonie Park  hopes to be a scene that started up again in the 1960s 
 Meanwhile it has gotten  completely restored down to the cobblestone in 2019
   

 The BELT is an art alley steps away from  old black area of  Harmonie Park - a musical street mainly Randolph and a theatre street (mainly Broadway)  Imagine black people taking a break between sets on Randolph . There was a thriving musical scene here from the 1870s to the 1970s Which is why people often argue where Black Bottom/Paradise Valley really was (see map)  Like other immigrant groups, for Blacks, the  landing neighborhoods of  Black Bottom/Paradise Valley kept shifting Northward until the population went around the mansions and  abutted Mack Avenue which is now the Medical Center. (That is Urban Renewal for ya - squeeze at both ends)

Fortunately  not every thing is gone .  The Black newspaper of record -The Michigan Chronicle has its offices in the Harmonie Park Music Historical area.Now that even the cobblestone is baack it is easy to close your eyes and imagine Ragtime  since the  early edge of  this fabled neighborhood started blocks form the river on  Adams in the post Civil War era . See Map. By the 1970s however, only Randolph street was left, just below Gratiot. WHY is this important ?

Finally the State of MI realized that Detroit lost an important piece of history and spent $$ to restore the area -particularly Randolph street and the BELT. Place the blame on the National Highway act, which  wiped out the main street Hastings(equivalent to Harlem's club scene)  and the Urban Renewal Movement which  tore down the rest. Motown arose from the rubble  The Supremes and Smokey Robinson were neighbors. Diana Ross moved here from a nicer neighborhood at 15  and black people in particular  were losing their jobs in the recession of the Eisenhower Presidency. Maxine Hubbard Belton moved here in 1953 and rented in  the area until 1960 , when Margaret  (yes me writing this ) started school and they were able to buy a house  near 8 mile ,Conant Gardens , which had great schools and was the black neighborhood to move into at the time.

Photo by Ryan " Jake" Jakubowski   of J&C Photography  Photography https://www.jcphotography-mi.com/about

PHOTOCREDIT  J& C Photography 2021

Amazing Photo of  January 2021 snowstorm in Detroit of  THE BELT 

 Harmonie Park  has an odd spelling but that reflects the 18th century
 Since Harmonie Park 
 was the black entertainment district for Black Bottom  inhabitants  (named because of the rich river dirt French Farmlands  - not racist!)   & Harmonie Musical District  was  eventually part of a larger entertainment area  called Paradise Valley. which started at Gratiot and shifted the area northward, Post Ragtime. This was the 1920s- 1950s where most Detroiters tell stories about it. It was a stop on the chitlin circuit and you could see anyone from Duke Ellington to Pigmeat Markham during its heyday.


Abutting the black Bottom/Paradise Valley neighborhoods was the original immigrant area : Greektown.

  The Greek Town Casino/Hotel  originally owned by The Sault Chippewa Indians is nearby, The whole area is quite old and has beautiful old circa 1888 buildings. The general Immigrant area was  originally Greek and Slavic and Irish and was all wood and Burned completely in 1805.  Interestingly the original Jail and the first  housing projects in Detroit  aka  the Brewster Projects  (Diana Ross, Mary Wilson and Florence Ballard ) were placed at the North and South ends of this area from the riverfront following generally the borders of the French Farming Strips  pre 1785. The ribbon farm map below is from the Detroitography blog and shows  Detroit @1796.

UNITED STATES SIDE OF DETROIT 
map by Detroitography 

We missed the Great  Fire of 1805.  Black people were here in Detroit  from @ 1834 when Canada outlawed Slavery and Michigan was a territory. The international border was the last stop on the Underground Railroad in the United States where escaping slaves took refuge in Churches like 2nd Baptist. Most blacks stayed here in Detroit working on the riverfront, but after the city suffered  the great fire of 1805 -distinct neighborhoods sprung up. See map: PLAN FOR DETROIT

Detroit was supposed to have a circular grid like Paris but the Cross hatch north -south British grid won out and was superimposed on the circular French grid . In any case the streets that have a little of both became slums. In the picture below the ribbon farms predated the slums , then the whole city burned down and had to start all over again. The slums :which included both Paradise Valley/Harmonie Park/Black Bottom start after the civil war. Blacks were restricted to this area and it became very overcrowded. See Map : UNITED STATES SIDE OF DETROIT 

Paradise Valley historically took up some 66 square blocks. Some say the area was bounded by Vernor, John R, Madison, and Hastings, while others say the neighborhood was bordered by Adams, Brush, Alexandrine, and Hastings. See Map: PLAN FOR DETROIT


 The community swelled from about 40,000 to 120,000, mostly by Southern blacks who flocked to Detroit for work in the automotive industry. The neighborhood was the only area where African-Americans could live at the time in the deeply segregated city                      

                                            PLAN FOR DETROIT          or why Love Child by Diana Ross and the Supremes sounds so heartbreaking - Its all in this map
(BACKSTORY ON DIANA ROSS)

  The slums started after the civil war. Immigrants fleeing Europe because of the political upheavals of the mid 1800s from Italy to the edges of Russia came to Detroit. The last group to colonize the area  that was already a slum thanks to overcrowding  and mostly wooden houses was black people from the Great Migration @1920-1950. The Urban Re-Newal movement razed the area along with the National Highway Act of 1949. See the pictures of  this area which was Detroit's equivalent of the Harlem Renaissance and lasted much longer due to black people getting paid by the car industry.

 Artistically ,The Great Depression killed off the Harlem Renaissance  1925-1929) Yet here there was enough going on for the REDBULL Academy to start documenting  Detroit's pre Motown Jazz and R&B scene see link https://daily.redbullmusicacademy.com/2015/08/detroit-jazz-and-blues


                                Wayne State University Archives Photo: Detroit News Archives (1938) 

    You have to close your eyes to see anything  that was jumping and musically thriving mid century Fortunately on  you tube  https://youtu.be/g2sOE2-DIHA  you can re live the era .

Maxine Hubbard moved here with Howard Belton in 1953  and rented near the Packard plant  and the edges of Paradise Valley. Her sisters Dorothy Davis and Gladys Hubbard lived nearby the Paradise Valley Black Bottom areas as well - all were able to enjoy some of the scene before they tore it down.  https://www.metrotimes.comm/detroit/paradise-reclaimed-the-winding-journey-to-restore-detroits-historic-black-entertainment-dostrict/Content?oid=2460356

All I remember is the Doctors office on Mack and St Jean near the Sears on the dividing line between Black Bottom and Paradise Valley also known as Gratiot. 


@ late 1950s All of us lived in a mixed neighborhood with older Germans and the Packard Plant nearby. Jessica Suzanne can tell you tons about  the era/area. The neighborhood has been razed.  Packard plant-  that famous ruin was still operating  but closed just as Black Bottom/Paradise Valley were done too. 1958 during the Eisenhower years was rough on black people and the economy.

https://www.secondwavemedia.com/concentrate/features/hipsterhistory0439.asp
Martha Battle Philpot  showing off Mural which features her Dads record Store in Paradise Valley at Bert Place Eastern Market/ Best place to hang out at a picnic table with a beer on Friday evenings till sunset https://www.secondwavemedia.com/concentrate/features/hipsterhistory0439.asp

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Packard_Automotive_Plant

the Packard plant has been purchased to be converted to lofts/stores etc. It is no longer a ruin that is explorable The famous overpass broke and it is constantly patrolled by security now. 

      Here is the latest renovation update 5 minutes  on You Tube  https://youtu.be/W825UDf57tc

If you wish to live vicariously you tube has quite a few films on the beat up Detroit - 

We of course prefer the history stuff on Our Black Heritage - not buildings

but people  

        See  this 5 minute podcast on Black Bottom and the Chrysler freeway that replaced it

https://wdet.org/posts/2015/10/19/81771-curiosid-how-a-1900s-black-detroit-community-was-razed-for-a-freeway/ of the  Black Bottom/Paradise Valley 

It is very hard to visualize the original black area today in your mind. Detroit has been relentless in tearing down its past. The football Stadium  sits atop central Paradise Valley

  and specifically replaced the nightclubs

https://detroithistorical.pastperfectonline.com/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&search_criteria=paradise+valley&searchButton=Search.


Club Congo /Ebony Room Paradise Valley 

both of these clubs/restaurants  were  probably  black and tan clubs which means it was interracial  before WWII . In any case it went back to being all black after the 1943 riots 



Replacing Black Neighborhoods ? This type of renewal is typical.  Also one  has to look hard to find the Victorian era or the Brownstone era neighborhoods (Middle  Class  Whites  When  Originally  Built)  in a city that has PLENTY of SPACE. (143 square miles - 6.2 miles industrial = 138 miles)

               We are lucky we can at least walk the riverfront and the Dequindre cut 

what is being torn down is what has always been torn down- Wooden houses.


this was the edge of the
 Greek area which abuts the black area 
See next photo which is a block away (black area )





 

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